Settled snugly in a block of run-down buildings across from the Scala Cinema movie theater is Bangkok Shark Fin, a modest restaurant that my family has been visiting for decades. Next to a small entrance, a glass window displays rows of shark fins. Pushing open the swinging glass doors that doesn’t shut completely, you will find yourself in a dingy room with cheap wooden tables and overhead tungsten lighting. Nothing about the humble atmosphere screams elegance or exorbitance; in fact, it’s the complete opposite. But there must be something about this place to have kept it in business for decades, and that is the quality and taste of the food.

It’s my family tradition to have a big Chinese feast whenever we have get-togethers for someone’s birthday, and shark fin soup is a staple in those meals. I have a big family so I’ve tasted shark fin soup from quite a number of establishments over the years. Some of those experiences had been mediocre; a faint memory that is only conjured up as a reminder never to visit those particular establishments again. A few are more memorable although some still lack consistency in their food preparation, with the food sometimes being delicious and sometimes just average. At Bangkok Shark Fin though, I am comforted by the assurance that the shark fin soup here will not disappoint, and it hasn’t so far.

The waitress bustled around us, setting down the clay pots containing the shark fin soup (1,000 baht/pot) in front of us with a warning that the pots were extremely hot. Glancing into the pot, the dark amber liquid was boiling away madly like molten lava inside a volcanic crater. Shark fins shaped like Chinese fans lurked beneath the broth, almost as if too shy to reveal its beautiful golden threads. White tidbits of crab meat and morsels of shiitake mushrooms floated like islands in the rich soup. Fragrant coriander leaves and white needles of bean sprouts are served as condiments on the side. The gelatinous strands of shark fin, chewy mushrooms and crunchy bean sprouts add an array of texture to the deep-flavored broth, making this dish a party for the palate.

Quick-boiled Chinese kale came neatly stacked and dressed with glistening oyster sauce on a plate (300 baht). The thick stems had been carefully peeled, leaving only the tender, crispy light green stalks. It was a simple but classic dish that’s hard to go wrong.

This is quite a meal in itself but for those of you with a big appetite, you can try the Pomfret Steamed in Plum Sauce (400 baht). A large mound of ginger slivers and pork fat strips covered most of the fish, with plump, juicy plums peeking out from underneath. Chinese food can be a bit oily but the pungent ginger and tartness of the plums helped cut down the oiliness of this dish as well as adding sharpness to the mildly seasoned fish.

Crab Claws or Prawns Baked with Vermicelli in Clay Pots (800 baht each) are another popular choice here, although my family claims Uncle makes it better. The faint aroma of spices were pleasing to the nose, although I was so full by this time that I only tasted a mouthful of each. The crab claws were packed with meat that easily fell off upon biting into them, but the prawns were a bit overcooked, resulting in the meat being too mushy. The vermicelli were lightly seasoned with a hint of soy sauce. The verdict? My uncle’s version is definitely more flavorful. Looks like I’ll have to ask him for the recipe one day!

We polished off the meal (feast might be a better word) with Gingko Nuts in Syrup (180 baht), which was refreshing and had just the right sweetness. This experience just goes to prove that great company and great food can make up for what’s missing in the ambience.

Bangkok Shark Fin
218/3-4 Siam Square Soi 1
Rama 1 Rd., Pathumwan
Thailand 10330
Tel: 02-251 -0987, 02-250-0976
Open: Daily 10:00am-11:00pm

Categories: Restaurant Review
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I’ve been on a quest to search for the perfect steak ever since Paween showed me Heston Blumenthal’s Steak and Salad episode on In Search of Perfection. After waiting in eager anticipation for my steak at various restaurants with the endeavors ending in a string of disappointments, I found the answer to my search right under my nose – or actually, Paween’s house!

The opportunity presented itself last Saturday when we arranged to meet for a business/casual dinner at his house. He agreed to grill steaks for the meal after persistent pestering on my part, and although it isn’t as “perfect” as Heston’s steaks, it takes a lot less time to cook, is a lot less complicated, and tastes great!

Paween’s Perfect Grilled Steaks
(Makes 4 servings)

• 4 250-g. cuts of good quality steaks, cut into inch-thick fillets (we had Thai-French Sirloins)
• 4 sprigs of fresh thyme
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and cut in half
• 2 Tbsp. olive oil
• 2 tsp. butter
• sea salt and black pepper to taste

Sprinkle the fresh thyme leaves onto the steak and season with sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper.

Rub the beef fillets with olive oil. Leave to marinate at room temperature for at least an hour.

When ready to grill, heat a griddle pan on high heat. Place the steaks on the pan when it is hot. The olive oil from the marinade will keep the steak from sticking to the pan. Note: Make sure the steak is at room temperature before grilling.

Allow the steaks to grill for one minute before turning it over. Grill for one more minute and flip the steaks over so that you get nice criss-crossed grill marks on the steak. Do the same for the other side, grilling each side for a minute each.

After the fourth minute, spear the garlic halves with a fork and rub it all over the steak. Repeat this step for the other side. Discard the garlic halves.

Spoon the butter into the pan and let it melt. Drizzle the melted butter over the steaks and grill until the steaks have had a total of six minutes of cooking time (for medium rare). Adjust the cooking time according to your preference of steak doneness.

Let the steaks rest for 5 minutes before cutting into thick 3/4-inch slices. Sprinkle sea salt on the pink sides and serve.

The steaks that Paween served up were beautifully pink and succulent. You can serve this with a variety of sides and salad or grilled vegetables. We had ours with baked potato skins (heaped with melted cheddar, crispy bacon and sour cream), grilled asparagus and mashed potatoes, and some red wine. What a perfect way to end a perfect day!

Categories: Recipes
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I remember the traditional libraries where you had to be extremely quiet and no food or drinks were allowed inside the premises. The one I recall from my days as a child was a building that divided into 2 sections upon entering; the room to the left was where all the children’s books were, with a little corner full of toys. Across the hall, the spacious dark room filled with rows and rows of shelves brimming with books seemed intimidating for a mere child.

I haven’t been to many libraries in my life but it seems that the more modern libraries nowadays are embracing a new concept; one where food, drinks and chit chat are allowed in designated areas. It gives the feel of a coffee shop, and I think that’s where Li-bra-ry got the ideas for their shop from.

This tiny coffee shop has an outdoor seating area and two adjacent rooms inside, comprising a total of about 10 tables, a bar and a long communal table for patrons to sit down with their laptops and wile away the day, which is exactly what we did. The walls are lined with white bookcases, with piles of magazines leaning against each other. In the middle of the communal table were also more stacks of magazines…rest assured you won’t be bored here if you happen to be waiting for a friend.

Li-bra-ry has a simple menu with a mix of European and Thai food. I had the Spaghetti Carbonara (135 baht) which was surprisingly good (but don’t expect al dente pasta here) and Jane had Khun Chai Soi Dao, rice topped with shredded sweet pickled radish and a fried egg with a sprinkling of chopped fresh chilies. Her friend had Kaeng Kiew Wan, or green curry, and although the Brownie Donuts (65 baht) looked delicious, we didn’t have any room left to try them.

This is a great place to just hang out and relax or to get some work done. And, unlike in traditional libraries, you don’t have to keep the noise level to a minimum or tiptoe to the bathroom.

Li-bra-ry
70 Rama 9 Soi 41
Suanluang, Bangkok
Thailand 10250
Tel: 02-718-3993
Open: Daily 10:00am-9:00pm

Categories: Restaurant Review
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